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Positano is
located in the Southern part of Italy, in the heart of the Sorrento
Peninsula dividing two of Italy’s most beautiful bays: the Bay of Naples
and the bay of Salerno. The village itself is built
around a small curving bay on a steep hill overlooking the island of the
Sirens.
It takes just over one hour to drive from Naples Airport to Positano, and
by the time you are half way, past the archaeological site of Pompeii,
and by the bay of Sorrento, you know that you have chosen the right
destination.
The coastline is rugged and rocky, every now and again allowing small
sandy coves and tiny harbours to be animated by colourful fishing boats. You must stop a couple of times to take in the beauty of the scenery,
the smell of the sea air, the jasmine and the sweet fragrance coming
from the little bakery down below in the village. Small stores
selling lemons, tresses of red and green pimentos, sweet small round
tomatoes and bouquets of fresh basil welcome the newly arrived visitor
to a world where beauty and goodness are as old as the volcano Vesuvio.
When you arrive in Positano you will discover that cars can only go as
far as half way down, for this village dramatically slopes down the
mountain towards the sea by way of little alleyways and many, many
steps.
Our chosen hotel "La Buca di Bacco" (Bacchus' Cove) is
just by the beach and the harbour, so we leave our luggage with the
porter and descend by foot among the colourful shops and restaurants. Bougainvillaea
and jasmine give colour and perfume, together with geraniums and all
sort of plants and trees and flowers.
Our room boasts the most beautiful high domed ceiling and majolica
floor. Green and white curtains try to protect us from the
brilliant sunshine coming from three enormous windows. Then, as we
draw the curtains, we discover the most wonderful terrace, almost as big
as the room, virtually suspended over the sea, the beach and the harbour
right below. The view extends both right and left towards Amalfi, Capri,
Sorrento.
Positano can be enjoyed in a variety of delightful ways. You can sun
tan by lying on the beach - the concierge at the Buca di Bacco will be
able to reserve a sun-bed and umbrella for you. You can hire a
little boat and sail along the coast towards Amalfi. Stop at the
enchanting Furore, a little fjord that cuts into the rock, to disclose
the smallest town, just a few yellow and pink houses. Sail to the
islets of Li Galli, where Nurayev used to own his dreamlike villa. Or
join the jet set in the famous piazzetta in Capri.
You can visit nearby towns such as Amalfi, where you can admire the
beautiful Duomo whilst enjoying a home made ice cream in the little
piazza and shop for the best bottle of "Limoncello" a liquor
made with lemons.
You can go further up the mountain to Ravello, city of music, heaven for
people looking for peace and quite among the lemon groves and a season
of classical concerts in the beautiful Villa Rufolo.
And of course you should devote one day to the visit of Pompeii, the
city that was completely covered by the lava from erupting Vesuvio in 79
AD, preserved for posterity, with its mosaics, paintings and roman
villas.
 All these excursions can be done by public transport or by sea, using
the very efficient local buses, ferries or hydrofoils.
Alternatively you can hire a taxi to take you around and wait for you
while you enjoy your sightseeing. The hotel will be able to
arrange all this for you.
Shopping is another pastime that could easily fill most of your day. Strolling
along the alleyways in Positano you will admire the most colourful
variety of pure linen dresses, floral swimwear, hand made sandals, hats
and straw handbags, as well as the famous coral jewellery and cameos.
My
favourite boutique is called "La Bottega di Brunella"; here the
linen dresses are cut in the most simple and original way, the fabrics
are dyed in the most exquisite colours together with matching
hats, scarves and handbags.
Bars and restaurant are in full swing at all hours for in Positano is
always time to enjoy life. My favourite bar is called "La
Zagara" , zagara being the name of the orange flower. This is
a bar with the most beautiful garden of orange trees and colourful
flowers. They serve granita ( half way between ice cream and
sorbet) in about ten different flavours, with or without whipped
cream. At night they have live music and the candlelight makes
this a truly magical place.
And then of course there is food. It is impossible to eat badly in
Positano. Our hotel "Buca di Bacco" has an excellent
restaurant, or you could also go to "Ristorante al
Palazzo", part of the
Hotel Palazzo Murat, where among beautiful
tropical flowers you can sample a most refined cuisine.
There are many good hotels in Positano and although I found Buca di
Bacco to be my favourite sort of heaven, I went to explore the famous 5
star "Le Sirenuse", where you have to book a generation in
advance if you want a room during high season. This is a very
elegant and beautiful hotel, you do need to dress up to compete with the
rich and famous that stay here. The
Hotel San Pietro, is also very
exclusive, just outside Positano, for smart folk who do not really want
to mix with the crowds. To be mentioned also is the
Hotel Palumbo in
Ravello. Another beautiful 5 star hotel that offers total peace,
incredible views and very posh service. Here you will be addressed
as "Madame" or "Monsieur", irrespective of which may
be your native language.
Nightlife in Positano extends to the very early morning hours. We
always wondered if the people we heard singing outside our window at six
o'clock in the morning were early risers or late nighters. But in
any case there are plenty of bars and night clubs, music for all ages
and tastes and food served all day, from as early as seven o'clock until
well after midnight.
As the
pounds started showing on our belly, we were very sad to leave. And to
those English friends who would ask the famous question" Would you
go back?" My answer would be:
"YES!
YES! YES!"
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