Pietrasanta. The "holy stone" of the majestic
Apuan Alps
Proudly overlooking the
Versilia Riviera, Pietrasanta is the "holy stone" of the majestic Apuan Alps, a
culturally and artistically polished stone, sparkling from the reflection of the
enchanting Tyrrhenian sunsets.
Its historical background begins in 1225, when Guiscardo from Milan, "podestą"
of Lucca, decided it was the best spot from which to keep an eye on both Pisa
and Genoa and their respective territorial claims. Florence also desired
supremacy in that strategic and beautiful part of Tuscany, so Giovanni de'
Medici, as Pope Leo X, brought Pietrasanta and Versilia under Florentine
control. In 1841 Leopold II of Lorraine, Grand Duke of Tuscany, granted
Pietrasanta the status of "Noble City", as a homage to its glorious past, the
beauty of its buildings, the importance of its institutions and the number of
noble and wealthy families residing there.
These features have remained until
the present day, as Pietrasanta and its surroundings are very much in demand by
VIPs eager to have at least their summer house on its glorious hills covered by
pine woods and olive trees, or on the fashionable seafront of Forte dei Marmi.
One of the first example of programmed urbanization in Tuscany, Pietrasanta's
pride is the charming Cathedral Square, dominated by the Fortress of Sala, still
imposing despite its dilapidated state. The Fortress' battlement walls reach the
rectangular perimeter of the spacious square, in which stand St. Martin's
Cathedral (13th century) with its red brick bell tower, the Church of S.
Augustin (14th century) with the annexed former convent, the sober-styled
Magistrates' Court ( 14th century) the Tower of the Hours (16th century) and the
Rocchetta Arrighina, in whose foundations Castruccio Castracani, Lord of the
town, auspiciously placed a cup of water and wine, a precious sapphire ring and
a gold florin.
The square is further enhanced by
the Marzocco fountain, bearing the Florentine heraldic lion as a testimony to
the Florentine influence, which was reinforced by the close 19th century statue
of Leopold II., and by the many sculptures displayed every summer in the square,
which becomes an open air museum.
Marble quarrying has brought an army of sculptors to Pietrasanta following in
the footsteps steps of Michelangelo, who personally came here to chose his
marble blocks extracted from the Apuan Alps, and the Piazza, blessed by its
seclusion from traffic, is a lovely sitting room where tourists and artists from
all over the world mingle with the friendly residents. Laboratories for marble
and foundries for bronze have established the fame of Pietrasanta and Versilia
as an international point of reference for all those who work in this artistic
field.
Adams, Bloc, Botero, Cascella,
Mitoraj, Moore, Nogouchi, Pomodoro, Stagi, Signori, Tommasi and Yasuda are among
the many famous names which continue to enrichen the town and the museum of
sculptors' models, next to the public library which overlooks the lovely
cloister of S. Augustine, now the "Luigi Russo" Cultural Centre. The church is
also an unusual and suggestive space which regularly hosts masterpieces in
painting and sculpture, and even the small Misericordia oratory boasts great
frescoes by Botero, a regular presence in Pietrasanta, as are the echoes of
Michelangelo and the poet Giosuč Carducci, native of the nearby Valdicastello.
" I like is Pietrasanta," he wrote, " a beautiful town with a unique square, a
cathedral worthy of a great city, and the Apuan Alps as a background. And what
surroundings! What mountains, what greenery, what shade, what rivers, what fresh
streams flow beneath chestnut trees and olive groves and orange orchards, all
framed by marble quarries along the green !"
Back in town, Pietrasanta is not only a venerable collection of old stones and
ancient memories. Its cobbled streets are lined with art studios and artisan
workshops, antique and fashion boutiques, lively cafes and picturesque trattorie.
They provide an evocative itinerary as yet unspoilt by the tourism industry, a
stimulating dish of Culture served on an ornate plate which provides an alluring
alternative to the Marina, which, for its own part, offers modern facilities,
bathing establishments and sporting and recreational amenities for a comfortable
and enjoyable holiday, whatever your preferences.
Author: Margherita Calderoni
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