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The northern tourist seeking an early taste of spring on the Italian and French Rivieras between Sanremo and Nice, is greeted by light and colour. The mimosas, the white brooms and the almonds are in full bloom and eating outdoors without wearing an overcoat is usually possible.
Nice's Carnival is noisy and cheerful, Sanremo's Italian Song Festival attracts the masses allowed for one week to take over the main street without risking lung cancer, an older crowd of Italian and French pensioners sedately invade Menton for the Fête du Citron.
On the mountainous hinterland from Ventimiglia to Imperia the few pay their respects to the local gold : olive oil.
Olive oil does not mellow with age. The most recently produced the best.
Olives are picked throughout the winter and by February all the new oil is there, ready for consumption. This is the time to taste and appreciate the new production.
To do this one could roam through the producing villages and towns up and down the steep mountains of Western Liguria. It would be very satisfying, it would take weeks.
We chose to have our new oils with food prepared by our favourite restaurant in the region.
La Via Romana in Bordighera amply deserves its single Michelin star. We enjoyed every moment of its menu "A Tavola con l'Olio Nuovo".
Seven dishes seasoned with seven different local olive oils were served. Half way through our dishes we added to the delightfully fruity white wine on offer with the menu a local Rossese di Dolceacqua of Tenuta Giuncheo - Camporosso.
Last but not least the final surprise: Basil Ice Cream with vanilla oil and caramelised olives.
Our surprised and somewhat suspicious expression soon gave away to that of sheer delight for this was the most delicate, delicious ice cream we had ever tasted.
La Via Romana is a must not just during the new Oil season. The service and the quality of food stays at its best all year round. And every visit is guaranteed to become a cherished memory.
La Via Romana, Via Romana 57, 18012 Bordighera ( Imperia) Tel. +39 0184 26 66 81. (www.laviaromana.it)
THE MENU
1. Ricottina di Taggia con rucola e olive taggiasche
Nino Perrino "Testalonga" - Dolceacqua ( Produzione Locale)
2. Carpaccio di mare con insalata di risini "Latini" alle spezie
G.B. Mandino Cane - Dolceacqua ( Produzione Locale)
3. Insalata tiepida di polpo e fagioli di Pigna in salsa di olive ed erbette
Marco Romagnoli - Dolceacqua
4. Suquet alle code di mazzancolle
Vall'Aurea di Ardoino - Pontedassio (www.isnardi.it)
5. Zuppa di lenticchie di Castelluccio di Norcia con dadolata di seppie
Carte Noire di Roi - Badalucco (www.olioroi.it)
6. Scaglie di merluzzo fresco con passatina di spinaci e salsa di acciughe
Tenuta Giuncheo - Camporosso
7. Gelato al basilico, olive caramellate, olio alla vaniglia e madeleines alla lavanda
- Fructus Aureus di Ardoino - Pontedassio (www.isnardi.it).
Author: Paola Giovannelli | 
